Finally, for all of you out there waiting for a how-to video on How to Make a Helical Lift...It's Finished!
45 minutes of step by step instructions on how I build my Helical Lift and what rolling ball sculpture materials you will need.
It starts with an overview of which motors I use, and why. I show you the mounting pads I use and discuss different materials you could use for a motor mount. I don't show you how to make the mounting pad, but I do explain the parts I use, and why.
Then I show you exactly how I build the spiral that lifts the marbles to the top. I discuss what bearings to use at the top of the spiral, and how I attach it to the frame. As well as how I mount the motor/mounting pad to the frame.
I then show how I build the upright keeper track that holds the marbles in as they are lifted to the top, how I install it, and finally I talk about how to add the feeder and exit tracks.
If you have wanted to try your hand at making a Helical Lift but have been unsure of where to start, this is for you. After watching this DVD you will know what steps you need to take, and why. Why buy an RBS when you can make your own? Not only will you have a cool rolling ball sculpture to show to your friends and relatives, (not to mention kick back and watch on your own!) you can impress them further by telling them you made it all by yourself. : )
Get this DVD now. Kick start that hobby, and make your own RBS to watch!
Go here: http://www.rollingballsculpture.com/videostore/
I am sold out of track clamps, but should have some in a month or so. I'll update this blog when they are done.
Payments only accepted through PayPal.
Contact me if you are interested... matthew.gaulden@gmail.com
Showing posts with label ball lift. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ball lift. Show all posts
Saturday, January 30, 2010
Monday, July 21, 2008
#76 - in progress
This is my current project; #76. It is 5ft tall X 3.5ft square. 4 different tracks with a chain lift.
This is the exit following the "plinko track scrambler" There are 3 possible paths the marbles can take, each one starting with a tipping arm.
Top view
Spaghetti "S" track
Spaghetti "S" track, top view
Marbles just getting ready to exit the plinko track scrambler into one of the three waiting tipping arms, randomly.
Top and bottom sections of the loop d' loop track. 6 inversions total with a nice jump into a basket at the bottom.
This is new. Several marbles are shot at high speed up into this section of stainless steel sheet metal. If the marbles are close enough they will change positions in the "L" section at the top. Then they reverse direction and roll back out the way they rolled in and go straight into the "plinko track scrambler". The marbles have a very pleasant "free" feeling to them as they wobble around on the hard surface before joining back up with the track.
Labels:
ball lift,
ball run,
ball track,
marble track,
roller coaster
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Ring lift and frame completed
For me, this is my blank canvas!
I finished with the first phase of my current project. The first phase is the frame and lift, and the second phase is the track and elements. The ring is 6ft diameter, made from walnut, and has 8 holes for picking up the marbles. The next step for me tomorrow will be to make the lever that will push the balls out at the top, and the track where the balls will be picked up from the bottom. I'll post another picture tomorrow with details of how the marbles will be pushed out.
I finished with the first phase of my current project. The first phase is the frame and lift, and the second phase is the track and elements. The ring is 6ft diameter, made from walnut, and has 8 holes for picking up the marbles. The next step for me tomorrow will be to make the lever that will push the balls out at the top, and the track where the balls will be picked up from the bottom. I'll post another picture tomorrow with details of how the marbles will be pushed out.

Below is a close-up of the right idler wheel. This wheel is adjustable so the pressure of the wheel against the ring can be changed if needed. I threaded a piece of 1/4" stainless steel rod, and cut it to length. It is inserted into a nut that's welded to the idler supporting arm, and is adjusted by two more nuts on either side.

Below is the arm that is not adjustable. The blue washer is the ball cage from a thrust bearing, and will eliminate wear in the long run. Getting the idler roller the right shape took a little while to get just right. The wood ring only contacts the idler with the chamfer on it's edge.


Finally, this is how the drive roller is mounted to the frame. I have a C clamp holding it on until I get to the hardware store and purchase the 1/4-28 nuts I need. Good enough for now. To keep the steel from twisting I added the support "kicker" under the motor. Since the wheel is almost 10 inches from the wall there is quite a bit of torque applied to the 1/2" steel tubing. I'll have a movie posted soon.
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